Day 36 - Wales Pembrokeshire !

It felt like groundhog day as we left Honiton once again for Bristol this time continuing across the huge Severn bridge into Wales for another 4 hours to meet friends at their rented cottage near St.Davids in Pembrokeshire.

Our friends Jack & Anna (Melbourne) Geoff and Jan (formerly Melbourne now Bournemouth UK) share a common background with the `boys` and self having all played soccer together in Melbourne for a perenial whipping team called Nth. Melbourne United where scoring a goal was reason enough for extensive celebration !

Having arrived at the cottage with our friends out Monika and i headed to nearby Porthgain a beautiful small harbor village with a historic quarrying history. A quick but nervous walk along the headland provided great views of many precipitous cliff side drops looking out towards Ireland.

Having made phone contact with Jack we caught up and dined in Porthgain at the 17c Sloop Inn. Meals were enormous and pints of ale free flowing as we reminisced of a past once shared and of journies since with Jack and Anna having recently completed the exact same Mediteranean cruise that we`d taken (if truth be told they in fact put us on to it!)

We returned to our nearby cottage a lovely character filled building with huge exposed timbers and 3 bedrooms with ours at the top of a steep spiral metal staircase meaning nocturnal visits to the toilet ( there was bound to be many after our drinking) were likely to be extremely hazardous !

A lovely night with good friends with sadly our time in the UK coming to an end but not before some exploring of this lovely area.

Day 36 - Bristol SS Great Britian

Made best use of our Hotel and took in a large buffet breakfast before adding another contribution to the UK economy by way of local car park charges !

It was a mild morning as we again walked down to the restored quayside area this time to partake in the excellent interactive experience that has the SS Great Britain as its central theme.

The GB is a magnificent and beautifully restored (170 years old) Brunel designed ship kept in a temperature controlled dry dock.

It saw over100 years service and covered 1 million nautical miles before laying as a wreck for 30 years in the Falkland Islands

Its design for its time was outstanding with a thin plated iron hull and the ability to operate under power or sail !

In 1970 a salvage company returned her from the Falklands to Bristol to the cheer of thousands of locals.

The ship itself took many immigrants to a new life in Australia and in particular serviced Melbourne during the gold rush of the 1850`s.

A tour through the ship showed the stark difference in passage type with first class afforded a degree of comfort while steerage class were jammed in confined areas and beds about 1/3 the width of today's beds

We spent quality time with Angela and Simon before departing back to Honiton for a Sunday dinner with the family and a big game of cards with this time Rita taking home a brick load of 2P pieces !

Thx Angela and Simon for organising the weekend - we Luv Yuz !

Day 35 - Bristol On fumes and a prayer !

Drove 1& 1/2 hours towards Bristol to meet our good UK friends Angela & Simon from Reading at the restored National Trust property of Tynetesfield a magnificently restored manor estate near Bristol.

A missed motorway turn off, a non functioning gps and a flashing low fuel light provided some early drama before we finally found the estate.

Manor estates are amazing properties, historically most being fiefdoms as the large land and buildings would be serviced by loyal families who often worked for small return.

The traditional owners of this property the Gibbs, made their fortune on the back of the sea trade including the passage of people immigrating to Australia in the mid 1800`s.

After walking the property and being amazed by the sense of grandeur (e.g. elaborate heating pipes under the billiard table to keep the slate from reacting to the cold) and by the knowledge of the volunteers who provided behind the scenes info, we headed 6 miles towards central Bristol and our Hotel for the night with Angela & Simon.

Monika and i remember cycling through Bristol on our end to end journey in 2011 enduring a complex navigational exercise this time made no easier by the fact that on fumes we were in a desperate search for fuel !

Following Simon`s best efforts it was like comedy capers as we`d approach turnoffs in the middle of two lanes not sure whether we were going to turn left or right. At one stage we were forced to overtake a non suspecting Simon and then had to watch desparately our rear view mirror to see what turn we were taking !

Thankfully we finally found fuel, checked in and headed down to the restored Bristol quayside area once a major transiting area for imported slaves.

The area now similar to Southbank in Melbourne, is a magnet for evening revelry and the growing UK tradition of costumed ` hens` party nights !

Sighted in chilly conditions were scantily clad girls dressed as sailors, pirates, bumble bees (yes ..! ) and in one case a group of what i thought were attractive things in mini skirts with a 1960`s look until a couple of them turned revealing wigs, cigarettes hanging from their mouths and an age that indicated that most would likely have been adults during the 60`s ...uuuggghhhh !

The night was a great catch up and reminisce of journeys taken and families with our friendship in Angela`s case stretching back some 35 years to when she and Monika both worked together in Honiton as young teenagers !!

Day 34 - Honiton `Durdle Door` !

Took to the road this time heading Nth East into lovely Dorset driving past the huge ancient earth fort at Dorchester and the delightfully named Puddletown to Corfe Castle on the Isle of Purbeck.

This lovely town & Castle bore seige to forces of Oliver Cromwell and now does similar to the crowds of tourists who make the daily journey here ..... interestingly both with Cannons of one type or another !

Heading cross country to the coast took me though the Lulworth military firing range where big artillery sighting numbers sit ominously close to the road as well as warning signs suggesting that you should give way to tanks ..... no argument from me !

Arrival Lulworth and nearby Durdle Door in sunny but chilly conditions treated the visual senses to a moment of awe with spectacular white chalk cliffs and the ancient rock formation of Durdle Door looking like dazzling gems in the sun providing a stunning contrast to the emerald green fields and meditteranean blue coloured waters... WOW !

The return home was as expected a bit of a mix with slow winding roads lending themselves to occasional small sections of dual carriageway ... I think a form of escapism for budding F1 drivers ! It seems that due to the principles of democracy that the Brits hold so dear the speed limit on such is really just a `nice to do if you`re up to it` without any form of compulsion !

The drive back though did provide another visual gem with the late afternoon sun casting a beautiful mauve haze over a rich tapestry of patchwork quilt fields ... one eye closed (not advisable when driving) and it would have looked like a Monet painting !

A beautifully scenic day !

Arrived home in time to join (Monika) at the kerbside queue in town for the fish and chips before spending an enjoyable family night of cards where the winner (Adam) got to take home a barrowfull of almost next to useless 1 & 2 P pieces ! Fun none the less !

Day 33 - Honiton `Flaming Tar Barrels`!

Had forgotten it was ANZAC day back in OZ until we`d checked in by Skype with the family and been advised of such and of Essendon`s big triumph over Collingwood !

With Monika out walking the Country lanes with Rita i took the car for a run around the local area and taking in the village scenery at Gittisham and Ottery St Mary.

Gittisham is a petite village of thatch but Ottery looks like it is straight out of the 40`s with dull buildings and an incredibly convoluted traffic system that winds its way around its narrow streets.

Ottery`s only savings are its fine church and as I found out in the late 70` ( pre OH&S) , its yearly festival which includes the amazing sight of men with gloves carrying & rolling flaming tarred barrels around the town. The practice has some historic significance and usually results in the treating of persons be they spectators or participants, for burns each year !

Day 33 - Honiton The deck chairs are out !

The morning papers were boasting of an expected heatwave like 22 C temperature in London .... with cooler mist like conditions it would be lucky to reach half that in Honiton !

Todays journey took me down to nearby Branscombe, a pretty village in a narrow glacial valley leading to the sea, traversing more of those damned narrow lanes ! So small in fact that cottages built alongside these lanes require you to look out your window before opening your front door for fear that you'll either step straight in front of a car or have one drive through your hallway and out through your kitchen !

Branscombe has a unique feel to it, the village because of the valley shape feeds itself gradually down to the sea with the towns church strangely the furtherest away from the sea apparently as a result of the regular plundering of this area by Erik and his roaming vikings !

How appropriate then when in 2007 the 62,000 ton freighter Napoli came to grief in these waters causing many of its 2,400 containers to float to shore. Treasure hunters (thieves) came from all over the UK to grab what they could with TV footage at the time showing some walking away with brand new Mercedes Motorcycles !

This area is also part of the UNESCO listed Jurassic coast region, an area of coastline whose rocks have revealed geological secrets going back millions of years to the Dinosaurs and when the land changed from desert , to swamp to sea and back to land!

My 10km walk started with a stiff climb from the seafront to the towering headland with great views of ocean and beaches below if you can call rock covered sand such !

The walk eventually took me down into the tiny sea front village of Beer which is obviously packed during the warmer tourist season judging by the hundreds of empty deck chairs placed on the beach sea front.

Beer was a delightful place to just simply watch the world go by sitting on one of the many donated benches.

The return journey was a bit more challenging taking a precipitous path down the cliff face back to the Branscombe river mouth but not nearly as scary as the return journey to Honiton down those Hamster sized lanes !

Day 32 - Honiton A Barnofi Ice Cream !

Hers -

Taking advantage also of the UK sun Monika and Rita took off for the seaside town of Seaton renowned for its narrow gauge tramline and trams and apparently according to Monika its Barnofi Ice Cream !

In a press release of few words Monika indicated both were enjoyed !

Day 32 - Honiton Kingston by the Sea !

His -

Took counsel from the Walks in Devon book and headed south 1&1/2 hours towards Plymouth and the picturesque thatched cottage village of Kingston.

It was my first encounter this trip with the famed narrow country lanes of Devon designed originally I think to accommodate two passing goats and not much else !

Driving these lanes requires 1 of 2 different driving techniques - 1) Drive with one hand mainly covering eyes anticipating a crash at every bend by screaming or 2} Drive with one wheel half way up hedge and hope the other driver is doing similar !

I`d noticed I'd started developing a maniacal type laugh on these lanes particularly when approaching a road sign indicating that your impossibly narrow lane was about too narrow even further... you're kidding !!!

Some how I made it Kingston in one piece and was quickly in chill zone when this fabulous marked walk took me through fields and forests down to a character filled coastal estuary complete with ruined bridge, a drivable causeway only accessible for 1 hour a day between tides and a pill box to stop those pesky Germans sneaking ashore ... Soon to be Bulgarians and Romanians "

The coastal walk following took in superb views as it roller coasted from one headland peak to another on this beautiful sunny day .. I know I take back all I've said about UK weather !

Back at Kingston after 10 tiring kms I noted what I'd seen at the start of my walk - a 16 c pub by the same name as the pub I first worked at when living in the UK and this familiar nameplate on one of the few houses in town ... Its a small world isn't it !

Day 30 - Honiton It`s raining !

The outstanding run of good weather (2 & a bit days) came to an abrupt end with dreary conditions prevailing limiting options to a choice of watching episodes of Neighbours and Home and Away (so popular over here) or a day of shopping in Exeter with Monika, her sisters Rita & Anita and mum Henny ..... not even a close contest !

Only 16 miles away Exeter is Devon`s vibrant hub. Its history of Roman walls, 15th C pubs and a beautiful cathedral & close is hidden amidst shops and cafes many built following extensive damage received during WW2.

Exeter, a university city, is also a city of some employment unlike rural Devon which over the years has been hit by the gradual collapse of industry & jobs resulting in high rates of local unemployment and in some cases generations of families that have never worked!

In this part of the world the difficulty is in not only getting a job but getting one that pays ! Austerity measures, high unemployment and an increase in service level work has meant min wage income earners (many) are barely earning $9 an hour - less than what a teenager would get for working at McDonald's back home !

The girls nevertheless did their bit to boost the flagging economy and we returned home in time to watch Man Utd with its players on 250,000 pounds a week take out the English Premiership for 2013 !!!

Day 29 - Honiton A rebellious town !

Not quite the three-peat we were hoping for with cooler northerly winds having invaded our shores (yes northerlies are cold in this part of the world !)

None the less with Monika entertaining with the family I escaped to nearby Colyton a former roman settlement and a 17C rebel stronghold during the civil war - as good a place as any to do another Devon walk.

A lovely start took me out along the Coly river (more a stream) again across open fields and narrow bridges ( a lovely landscape) with the now common farm smells wafting in the wind.

These walks with associated maps and directions have almost the feel of a treasure hunt with just enough info to keep you heading in the right general direction but also with a damned good chance of getting lost before you've reached your return destination.

Today's walk provided some interesting considerations 1) will that rickety bridge support my `cruise` achieved enlarged weight 2) If I need to use the sun as a compass how can I when there isn't any 3) Will search and rescue staff recognize my shoes if any of those farm bogs I'm crossing turn out to be quicksand ..... I know, i know ... been watching way too many movies !

Its hard to explain but even in a land of 60+ million people these walks are designed to provide a sense of one with the landscape and a place of solitude so important to recharge those spiritual batteries and consider those great imponderables .......will St.Kilda ever win another premiership .... will Monika keep working till she's 90 so i can keep doing this. ... In all seriousness walking in the UK, as much as i love cycling is a cathartic experience and so cleansing of the soul!

A few twists and turns, a narrow escape from a group of motor cross bikes charging up a bogged laneway so narrow i was forced to stand in the hedge and an accumulation of an extra 10kgs in bog mud had me back at the lovely church and town center of Colyton.

A beautiful 10 km walk although the fields show a fair bit of damage from the severe 2012 UK floods

Returned to Honiton just in time to beat a late afternoon drizzle and partake in a Sunday afternoon cooked dinner complete worth Yorkshire spuds prepared by Monika
and her family

Day 28 - Honiton Two in a row !

All good things come to those that wait ! With a 2nd consecutive day of sun and a temp of 12 c we did what most other Uk`ers would do and headed for the beach !

With Anita and niece Ellie we headed south to the coast by train to Paignton. The route provides traveling purists with a section of outstanding scenery as the train follows the river Exe to and then long the coast at Dawlish .... on some days with spectacular effect !

Arrival Paignton saw the streets and penny arcades bustling with sun worshippers who'd come out to help mark the passing of one of the coldest starts to a year on record !

Pound shops, amusement arcades and eateries were all doing a pretty reasonable business. Monika and I walked the sea front allowing Ellie to run amok at the nearby playground.

All that was left to do was to partake in that other UK seaside ritual by consuming a fair portion of pretty damned good fish and ships at the same time keeping a wary eye on nearby gulls who looked capable of carrying off leftovers and you if given half a chance !

With Ellie`s energy levels sufficiently reduced we headed back to Honiton on the same spectacular route daring now to hope for a three-peat !

Day 27 - Honiton `The Sun at Last` !

At last a Spring day and with the sun out it was time to take in spot of `rambling` !

The time honoured tradition of rambling is on simple terms walking and climbing in designated areas often though privately owned properties without the fear of being shot at !

Britian is a land of walkers and it is easy to see why with thousands of miles of designated pathways going through areas of beautiful scenery and often significant historical interest.

This 10 km walk (14 km after I retraced my steps after getting lost) started at the lovely Devon thatched village of Broadhembury !

The walk wound its way through fields of acidy / sweet farm smells over stiles to a
grass plateau used by the Devon & Somerset gliding club in full action with the warmer weather !

The club provided a good a stop for a cuppa and a talk with the only 2 members not in the air as they tried to work out how to pick up a downed glider at rest in a not too impressed farmers field some 60 mikes away !

While doing my thing Monika and sister Rita did similar with one exception climbing Round Ball Hill overlooking Honiton. Upon reaching the top and realising that they were without supplies they resorted to ringing Nephew Adam who took in orders for a Tesco picnic and then delivered the supplies by scooter to the girls on top of the hill- talk about dial a picnic !

Could we possibly hope for 2 in a row !

Day 26 - Honiton Back home again !

After travelling at a frenetic pace over the last couple of weeks it was nice to ease back into `cruise zone` spending a day not doing too much in Honiton other than trying to ward off Monika`s germs which appear to have finally overun my heroic defense system bringing on a cold !

You really do know you're back in England .... the weather is predictably cold ... you cant find anywhere to park .....the national paper has16 pages devoted to Margaret Thatcher and still has room for a semi naked women though respectfully on page 17 .... and with the lousy weather the towns Tesco supermarket becomes the main hangout !

Honiton, a town of over 10,000 residents may not be up to your classic European history standard but it does have some significant local history as I found out perusing the local museum today -

- laying out a dual carriageway near the town, workers uncovered bones of many ancient hippos suggesting a much warmer climate thousands of years back .... hard to believe I know !

- Arthur ` Bomber `Harris head of British bomber command during ww2 went to school in Honiton !

- the tradition of throwing hot pennies out of a window in the towns main street goes back 150+ years and serves as a main feature of Honitons annual carnival period !

and most importantly Honiton

- is where Monika and I met 36 years ago while working at one of Honitons Hotels ....

Young love and all 1 million of our UK family (seems like it!) is why Honiton is our 2nd home !

Day 25 - UK Its bloody cold again !

A day where east met west in a confrontation of might !

Put our bags in hold and set off around the newer part of the city heading towards the nearby hills and the Petrin tower a 1/3 19th c replica of the Eiffel tower with impressive views of the Prague skyline.

The fact that wed ascended the 300 narrow steps the wrong way caused some minor consternation with other tourists but ready application of the Aussie snarl soon had them backing off !

From there it was only a short stroll to the beautiful Prague Palace and surrounds with enough history to blow a brain fuse box, coronations, emperors, Popes etc - by contrast our history in Australia is measured by remembering when your football team last won the premiership !

The Prague cathedral in the palace grounds was superb with its high vaulted roofs and full length stain glass windows very much in the Gothic style of the classical Notre Dame In Paris

Lunch was an apple strudel in the Palace cafe overlooking the Prague skyline of spires and gold labelled spheres before we waddled back in the general direction of our hotel

In an incident approaching the scale of the Korean conflict, a taxi decided to try and wipe us both out on a crossing with a green light that lasted one second ! Standing my ground I slammed my fist on to his bonnet while simultaneously remembering a not too remote history of Czech partisans lobbing grenades down Russian tanks ...... exit stage right !!!

With beautifully mild weather we walked the river with locals and tourists alike taking in the afternoon sun before saying goodbye to lovely Prague and taking the red eye special (flying sardine can) back to the UK

Predictably the weather temps plummeted as soon as we crossed the channel arriving at Bristol.

The 2 hour drive to Honiton was very tiring but i was kindly kept awake thanks to Monika .... watch your speed, watch the hedge, watch the corner ... until arriving back in Honiton (minus the girls) at 2.00a.m for the next leg of our trip !